#1 Choose Your Goats: Table of Contents
Goat Myths Debunked
Goat Facts
Are Goats Really For Me?
Does, Bucks, or Wethers?
Which Breed Is For Me?
Registered or Unregistered?
The Great Horn Debate
Selecting A Herd Size
Where Can I Find A Breeder?
Goat Myths Debunked
Goat Facts
Are Goats Really For Me?
Does, Bucks, or Wethers?
Which Breed Is For Me?
Registered or Unregistered?
The Great Horn Debate
Selecting A Herd Size
Where Can I Find A Breeder?
Goat Myths Debunked
First, some background information regarding common myths about goats.
#1 Goats Will Eat Anything
False. This myth was probably started because old cartoons depicted goats eating tin cans. Goats are vegetarians, and are actually fairly picky about what they eat. If there was a tin can offered to them, they might mouth the paper label and even tear and eat the paper, but they do not, under any circumstances, eat tin cans.
#2 Goats Will Mow My Lawn For Me
Mostly False. Although goats do a great job of clearing brush from wooded areas, it is unlikely that they would keep your yard manicured enough to look "mowed." Goats are browsers, not grazers. They pick and choose what they want to eat and leave what they don't want to eat.
#3 All Goats Stink
False. Bucks (intact males) emit a strong odor that becomes worse during their breeding season known as "rut." Bucks also pee on their faces and all over everything else in order to attract females. Does (females) and wethers (castrated males) DO NOT STINK.
#4 Goats are Escape Artists
True AND False. Goats are curious creatures. Although it is true that some bratty goats just like to try to escape and get into trouble, for the most part, a goat who is happy with plenty enough to eat and drink are more likely to stay put where they are supposed to be...granted that all easy escape opportunities are minimized.
#5 If I Buy A Female Goat It Will Give Me Milk Forever
False. This is not really a myth, but I have answered this question many, many times for people who did not know. Like any other mammal, female goats must be bred and freshen (have babies) in order to produce milk. A lactation, or the period of time that a goat will produce milk, is typically 305 days, but that time can be longer or shorter based on various factors. In short, a goat must be bred every year in order to keep getting milk.
Still want goats? Read on...
First, some background information regarding common myths about goats.
#1 Goats Will Eat Anything
False. This myth was probably started because old cartoons depicted goats eating tin cans. Goats are vegetarians, and are actually fairly picky about what they eat. If there was a tin can offered to them, they might mouth the paper label and even tear and eat the paper, but they do not, under any circumstances, eat tin cans.
#2 Goats Will Mow My Lawn For Me
Mostly False. Although goats do a great job of clearing brush from wooded areas, it is unlikely that they would keep your yard manicured enough to look "mowed." Goats are browsers, not grazers. They pick and choose what they want to eat and leave what they don't want to eat.
#3 All Goats Stink
False. Bucks (intact males) emit a strong odor that becomes worse during their breeding season known as "rut." Bucks also pee on their faces and all over everything else in order to attract females. Does (females) and wethers (castrated males) DO NOT STINK.
#4 Goats are Escape Artists
True AND False. Goats are curious creatures. Although it is true that some bratty goats just like to try to escape and get into trouble, for the most part, a goat who is happy with plenty enough to eat and drink are more likely to stay put where they are supposed to be...granted that all easy escape opportunities are minimized.
#5 If I Buy A Female Goat It Will Give Me Milk Forever
False. This is not really a myth, but I have answered this question many, many times for people who did not know. Like any other mammal, female goats must be bred and freshen (have babies) in order to produce milk. A lactation, or the period of time that a goat will produce milk, is typically 305 days, but that time can be longer or shorter based on various factors. In short, a goat must be bred every year in order to keep getting milk.
Still want goats? Read on...
Goat Facts
- Goats are ruminants, which means that they have specialized four chamber stomachs in which they ferment and digest plant matter. Ruminants regurgitate partially digested food (cud) and chew it again to help the digestion process. Other ruminants include cattle, deer, sheep, and giraffe.
- Goats have horizontal pupils, which allow them to see behind them as predators approach. It is reported that their vision can cover up to 340 degrees! Because of the shape of their pupils, they also cannot look up or down without moving their heads, but they have excellent night vision.
- Due to the shape of the retina, goats do not have great depth perception, and are farsighted with a slight astigmatism.
- Goats do not have top teeth, only bottom teeth and extremely sharp molars where the action happens. Word to the wise: keep your fingers out the back of a goat's mouth!
- Goats do not have sweat glands, so they do not sweat. Instead they pant like dogs to cool themselves.
- Goats have been domesticated by humans for THOUSANDS of years!
- According to legend, coffee was discovered when an Ethiopian goat herder noticed his goats were jumping and dancing around after they ate coffee berries off of bushes. THANKS GOATS!
- Goat milk is naturally homogenized, which means the cream does not readily rise to the top of the milk. Many people who are lactose intolerant can drink goat milk because it contains less lactose, and the fat molecules are much smaller than cow's milk, making it easier for most people to digest.
Are goats really for me?
There are many factors that you must consider before you start raising goats. The following questions are geared towards those who want goats for pets. If you decide to breed and milk, then there are ALOT more questions you need to ask yourself. These seven questions are a starting point. Answer them honestly to help you decide.
There are many factors that you must consider before you start raising goats. The following questions are geared towards those who want goats for pets. If you decide to breed and milk, then there are ALOT more questions you need to ask yourself. These seven questions are a starting point. Answer them honestly to help you decide.
- First and foremost: Am I allowed to keeps goats where I live? If not, and you do it anyways, you are only asking for your goats to be seized because you did not comply with your city/town regulations.
- Am I prepared to have at least two goats at all times? Goats are herd animals. Generally, they do not do well if they live alone, as they can get very depressed and even die of loneliness. Goats must have another goat buddy to live and play with. Dogs, cats, horses, sheep, people and other livestock DO NOT COUNT. If one goat dies, you must buy another one, so that the survivor has a friend.
- Do I have enough space for goats? At bare minimum, goats need a shelter that protects them from rain and wind, and an adequate fence to keep them where you want them. If left to roam, goats WILL EAT YOUR GARDEN, WANDER IN THE ROAD and COME IN YOUR HOUSE! You CAN dry lot goats (bring them all of their food and water) but if they live in too small of a space you might compromise their health as they are prone to intestinal parasites. Access to pasture or fresh browse is highly recommended.
- Can I afford to feed my goats? The cost of the goat itself is just the tip of the iceberg. If you do not have hay, then you must procure hay, which costs money. Goats cannot sustain life 365 days a year just eating your lawn. Goats need, at the very least, grass hay all day, every day to sustain life. What are you going to feed them in the winter when there is no grass, only snow? A pelleted grain is also recommended for growing animals and lactating does, as well as full-time access to a quality loose mineral.
- What will I do if my goat gets sick? Do I have a mentor or a vet who I can consult when my goat gets sick? Do I have enough extra income to cover an emergency vet bill on Sunday, July 4th at 2am (TRUE STORY!)?
- Am I committed to providing care and maintenance to keep my goats happy and healthy? In addition to food and water, goats need regular hoof care, vitamins and mineral supplements, and vaccinations (if you choose). Water buckets need constant attention, especially in the summer, when it needs changed out several times a day, and in the winter when the ice needs broken off the surface. Goat stalls and houses require regular maintenance to keep them clean enough to be a healthy environment.
- Do I have a person or persons who I can call to take care of my goats when I'm going to be out of town or away on vacation? If not, you need to identify that person BEFORE you get goats.
Still want goats? Read on...
Does, Bucks or Wethers?
Doe- A female goat
Buck- A male goat
Wether- A castrated male goat
Kid- A baby male (buckling) or female goat (doeling)
The sex of the goats you choose to raise is largely dependent upon what you want them for. This chart will help you decide what to get.
Doe- A female goat
Buck- A male goat
Wether- A castrated male goat
Kid- A baby male (buckling) or female goat (doeling)
The sex of the goats you choose to raise is largely dependent upon what you want them for. This chart will help you decide what to get.
Cost (to Purchase)- Does are the most expensive to buy because they can reproduce and give milk. Registered prices range from about $400 all the way up to several thousand dollars. You can expect to pay $100-$250 for unregistered stock. Bucks are generally about $100 cheaper than does, depending on what you get. Again, registered bucks can range from around $300 all the way up to several thousand dollars. Kid prices are comparable to registered doe and buck prices depending on their pedigrees. Wethers cost $50 on the low end, up to around $200 on the high end.
At my farm, Twin Willows, I use a sliding scale to price registered animals. The base price is $450 and go up from there based on accomplishments of the animal itself and her parents. I sell wethers for $150 each.
Maintenance- Wethers require the least maintenance, followed by bucks. The general maintenance of wethers is limited based on the fact that they are not breeding animals. Breeding animals require more maintenance than wethers, with kids requiring the most maintenance, especially if they are not yet weaned.
Odor- Bucks (and young bucks over 4-ish months old) pee on their faces, on the backs of their legs, on their beards, and really...everywhere. The urine obviously has an odor and it smells stronger during their breeding season (rut). Wethers do not stink. Does do not stink. Kids do not stink.
Reproducing- Does and Bucks can reproduce. Doelings (doe kid) as young as 5ish months, and Bucklings (buck kid) as young as seven weeks CAN REPRODUCE, though not suggested. Wethers cannot reproduce, as long as BOTH testicles have been completely removed. Wethers can live with bucks, does, and other wethers. Does of some goat breeds come into season (heat) every month, so it is not suggested that bucks of any age be housed with does. Goat gestation is 150 days for standard breeds and 145 days for miniature breeds. Does can have ONE to SEVEN (Guiness World Record Pending) babies in a litter.
Can Give Milk- Does will lactate if they are bred and will produce milk after they freshen (give birth). In general, a lactation lasts 305 days. Does can lactate shorter or longer than 305 days based on several factors, including their food intake and how their udders are maintained. We will talk more about kidding and milking later.
In Summation: Does and wethers make great pets. Depending on your reasons for keeping goats, you can use the chart above to help you make decisions. Bucks are not horrible creatures. In fact, all of the bucks at my farm are very friendly. However, bucks should only be kept for breeding purposes because of the separate housing requirements and the annoying smell. Obviously, if your intention is to breed, you are going to need a buck or access to a buck to service your doe(s). We will delve further into that later.
Still want goats? Let's explore the breeds...
At my farm, Twin Willows, I use a sliding scale to price registered animals. The base price is $450 and go up from there based on accomplishments of the animal itself and her parents. I sell wethers for $150 each.
Maintenance- Wethers require the least maintenance, followed by bucks. The general maintenance of wethers is limited based on the fact that they are not breeding animals. Breeding animals require more maintenance than wethers, with kids requiring the most maintenance, especially if they are not yet weaned.
Odor- Bucks (and young bucks over 4-ish months old) pee on their faces, on the backs of their legs, on their beards, and really...everywhere. The urine obviously has an odor and it smells stronger during their breeding season (rut). Wethers do not stink. Does do not stink. Kids do not stink.
Reproducing- Does and Bucks can reproduce. Doelings (doe kid) as young as 5ish months, and Bucklings (buck kid) as young as seven weeks CAN REPRODUCE, though not suggested. Wethers cannot reproduce, as long as BOTH testicles have been completely removed. Wethers can live with bucks, does, and other wethers. Does of some goat breeds come into season (heat) every month, so it is not suggested that bucks of any age be housed with does. Goat gestation is 150 days for standard breeds and 145 days for miniature breeds. Does can have ONE to SEVEN (Guiness World Record Pending) babies in a litter.
Can Give Milk- Does will lactate if they are bred and will produce milk after they freshen (give birth). In general, a lactation lasts 305 days. Does can lactate shorter or longer than 305 days based on several factors, including their food intake and how their udders are maintained. We will talk more about kidding and milking later.
In Summation: Does and wethers make great pets. Depending on your reasons for keeping goats, you can use the chart above to help you make decisions. Bucks are not horrible creatures. In fact, all of the bucks at my farm are very friendly. However, bucks should only be kept for breeding purposes because of the separate housing requirements and the annoying smell. Obviously, if your intention is to breed, you are going to need a buck or access to a buck to service your doe(s). We will delve further into that later.
Still want goats? Let's explore the breeds...
Which breed is for me?
There are many choices for you when it comes to choosing a breed of goat. In the United States, goats are basically classified into three different categories: Dairy, Meat, and Fiber. You should choose the category and breed that works best for you for your purposes.
There are many choices for you when it comes to choosing a breed of goat. In the United States, goats are basically classified into three different categories: Dairy, Meat, and Fiber. You should choose the category and breed that works best for you for your purposes.
Dairy Goats
Dairy Goats are bred for milk, so we will focus on the dairy goat's purpose which is...MILK! These numbers were compiled from the ADGA 2016 Knowledgebase and ADGA & AGS Breed Standards.
Note: One gallon of milk weighs approximately 8 lbs.
|
Alpine or French Alpine
Lamancha Nigerian Dwarf Nubian Oberhasli Saanan Sable Saanan Toggenburg |
Average Body
Wt (Adult Doe) 135 lbs+
130 lbs+ 75 lbs 135 lbs+ 120 lbs + 135 lbs+ 135 lbs+ 120 lbs+ |
Height at Withers (Doe)
> 30 inches
> 28 inches <22.5 inches > 30 inches > 28 inches > 30 inches > 30 inches > 26 inches |
Average Daily Production (in lbs)
8.5 lbs
7.4 lbs 2.4 lbs 6.5 lbs 7.3 lbs 9.1 lbs 7.6 lbs 7.2 lbs |
Average Milk Fat Percentage
3.3%
3.7% 6.4% 4.7% 3.8% 3.3% 3.3% 3.2% |
As you can see, there are trade offs to every breed of dairy goat. The bigger the breed, the more they eat. Standard breeds produce more milk but have a lower fat content. The Nigerian is compact, eats much less than a standard goat and has the highest butterfat, which will produce a sweeter milk and the best yield if you will be making products such as cheese, yogurt and kefir. I admit that I am biased, and chose the Nigerian Dwarf for their small size and the quality of their milk.
You choose what's best for you. Also, please remember that if you choose to have milk, you MUST breed the doe in order for her to lactate. Dairy wethers make perfect pets and of course, they cannot breed, so you don't have to worry about breeding and milking.
Dairy Goat Registries: ADGA, AGS
You choose what's best for you. Also, please remember that if you choose to have milk, you MUST breed the doe in order for her to lactate. Dairy wethers make perfect pets and of course, they cannot breed, so you don't have to worry about breeding and milking.
Dairy Goat Registries: ADGA, AGS
MEAT GOATS
Meat goats are bred for meat. In general, meat goats have more muscle mass than dairy goats due to their purpose, which is meat.
Despite being classified as red meat, goat is leaner and contains less cholesterol, fat, and protein than both lamb and beef, and less energy than beef or chicken; therefore, it requires low-heat, slow cooking to preserve tenderness and moisture.
Below are some breeds you may want to consider if you would like to breed meat goats:
Boer- The boer goat is a South African meat goat with a large frame. They are white and reddish-brown, or all red, short-haired, and with black, brown or red markings on the head and neck.
Spanish-Before Boer goats became available in the US in the late 1980s, Spanish goats were the standard meat goat breed, especially in the South. These goats are descendants of goats brought by Spanish explorers. They're medium-sized and lanky, mostly short-haired, and come in all colors.
Myotonic (Fainting)- Developed in Tennessee, these goats go rigid and "faint" or fall down when startled. Myotonic goats are hardy, fertile, and have a long breeding season.
Kiko- Large-framed, white, hardy and able to thrive under poor conditions, the Kiko was developed in New Zealand and brought to the US in the 1990s. Kikos are strictly meat producing goats.
Pygmy- Pygmy goats are mostly pets, but they do have some potential for meat because they have a compact and meaty body and are fertile out of season.
Source: https://www.thespruce.com/choose-meat-goat-breeds-3016784
HAIR AND FIBER GOATS
Angora
Angoras have long, wavy coats, with fiber called mohair. They are usually white. They have short, curved horns, which are usually left on the goat, because they may regulate body temperature. The average adult goat produces 8 to 16 pounds of mohair each year, while kids give from 3 to 5 pounds of longer, finer hair.
Cashmere
Cashmere goats in the United States aren’t a breed but a type of goat. Feral goats from Australia and Spanish goats in the United States are both cashmere producers. Cashmere goats are dual fiber/meat goats.
Pygora
The Pygora is a cross between the Pygmy and the Angora. The Pygora is a small, easy-to-handle, and good-tempered fiber goat.
Nigora
Nigoras are a cross between a Nigerian Dwarf and an Angora . They have the advantage of producing colorful fiber as well as milk.
Source: http://www.dummies.com/home-garden/hobby-farming/raising-goats/choosing-goat-breeds-for-fiber/
In Conclusion: There are many types and breeds of goats. Be aware that there are also many, many crossbreeds (or grades) that can result in goats with an endless array of characteristics. Choosing the type and breed of goat that you want to raise is highly dependent on what you want them for.
Still want goats? Read on...
Still want goats? Read on...
Registered or Unregistered?
Many registries exist to keep pedigrees and record births. For dairy goats, there is the American Dairy Goat Association, and the American Goat Society, as well as many specific breed registries. There are also registries for miniature goats, meat goats, and fiber goats. There are many beautiful, healthy goats who are not registered out there, but there are some distinct advantages to having registered goats.
Since the entire point of breeding goats is (or should be) to improve the breed, the most obvious advantage of raising registered goats is that you can track the animal's ancestry and thus, it's genetic history.
All registries require a fee to be paid to them in order for them to manage your pedigrees, which is usually higher for non-members of the organization. Registered animals have an official registered name, and are most often identified by tattoos in their ears or on their tails, which identify them from every other goat in the registry. Registries keep track of pedigrees, show wins, appraisal scores, production (milk) data, and other important DNA and genetic data used by breeders to improve their goats towards the ideal animal.
Because of the work that goes into, and comes out of registered stock, you can expect to pay more for them than unregistered stock. Relatedly, you can also expect to get more profit out of registered stock when you sell them or sell the registered babies from them. There are rules to which animals can be and can't be registered. In the case of Nigerian Dwarfs, an animal can only be registered if both parents were registered because their herd book is closed, rather than open.
A word of caution: Just because an animal is "registered" does not mean that it is "good" and it also doesn't mean that it's healthy and disease free. We will talk more about that later.
Still want goats? Read on...
Many registries exist to keep pedigrees and record births. For dairy goats, there is the American Dairy Goat Association, and the American Goat Society, as well as many specific breed registries. There are also registries for miniature goats, meat goats, and fiber goats. There are many beautiful, healthy goats who are not registered out there, but there are some distinct advantages to having registered goats.
Since the entire point of breeding goats is (or should be) to improve the breed, the most obvious advantage of raising registered goats is that you can track the animal's ancestry and thus, it's genetic history.
All registries require a fee to be paid to them in order for them to manage your pedigrees, which is usually higher for non-members of the organization. Registered animals have an official registered name, and are most often identified by tattoos in their ears or on their tails, which identify them from every other goat in the registry. Registries keep track of pedigrees, show wins, appraisal scores, production (milk) data, and other important DNA and genetic data used by breeders to improve their goats towards the ideal animal.
Because of the work that goes into, and comes out of registered stock, you can expect to pay more for them than unregistered stock. Relatedly, you can also expect to get more profit out of registered stock when you sell them or sell the registered babies from them. There are rules to which animals can be and can't be registered. In the case of Nigerian Dwarfs, an animal can only be registered if both parents were registered because their herd book is closed, rather than open.
A word of caution: Just because an animal is "registered" does not mean that it is "good" and it also doesn't mean that it's healthy and disease free. We will talk more about that later.
Still want goats? Read on...
The Great Horn Debate
Most breeders are very passionate about this topic to one side or the other. I don't care either way if you decide to keep horned goats, or if you keep disbudded or polled (naturally hornless) animals. In some breeds, horns are encouraged including many of the meat and fiber breeds. I raise dairy goats. The only thing I can tell you is why I choose to raise goats without horns.
Registered dairy goats cannot have horns. If they are not polled, then they must be disbudded shortly after birth. Hornless goats are safer. There are no worries about them hurting others with them or getting their horns stuck in the fence and hanging themselves. I will not knowingly sell a disbudded goat into a herd with horned goats. The risk of injury is too great, and I have put too much work into my babies just to have them gored. Should you decide to have horned goats, you should be prepared for the consequences of having them.
But, just as importantly, should you decide to have goats disbudded at birth, you either have to learn how to do it yourself or have an experienced person or veterinarian do it for you. In six years of breeding, I have never learned, nor have I ever wanted to learn, how to do it. Disbudding, or burning the horn buds with a hot iron, is the safest and most humane method of removing horns. Disbudding paste SEEMS more humane, but I promise you, it is not! Disbudding with paste causes WEEKS of pain for the baby, as opposed to just a few minutes of pain from the hot iron. My husband disbuds all goats born on the farm in the first few days of life. At those times, I run far, far away because I just can't stand the smell of burning hair. The good news is that, if done correctly, the iron is only on their heads for a few seconds, and babies recover almost instantly.
You might be thinking right now...well I'll just buy polled (naturally hornless) goats. Good thought, but that's not how it works. Breeding a polled goat to a horned goat still almost always results in some horned babies. Breeding a polled goat to a polled goat is NEVER ADVISED because of the increased risk of hermaphroditic offspring. It's okay to have a few polled goats around, but it's simply impossible to get around having babies born with horn buds if you are breeding.
Still want goats? You sure?
Read on...
Selecting a Herd Size
So, if you've read this far, you are probably still serious about getting goats, but how many should you get? For this section, I've developed a system of herd classification that I will refer to several times in future sections. Let's define them.
Level 1 Herd: Backyard Goats
The Level 1 herd consists of 2+ animals that are strictly kept for pets. Most often, this herd is made up of several wethers or does and wethers. If a doe resides in the herd, she is never bred. They live in small shelters or sheds in backyards, so they might also be referred to as "Backyard Goats."
If you want a Level 1 Herd, start with two wethers.
Level 2 Herd: Milk Production
The Level 2 herd consists of a small group of does that are serviced by one buck, either on the property or from another breeder, to bring them into their lactations. This herd is kept strictly for milk production purposes. Milk is used by the family for drinking, to make cheese and other dairy products, or to produce soaps and lotions. Babies born from the breedings are quickly sold at birth or at weaning, most often as pets.
If you want a Level 2 Herd, start with two does and a wether. Later, you can bring in a buck to service your does and move the wether to bunk with him when he is not "working". If you choose a breed that enters estrus all year (like Nigerian Dwarf, Pygmy, Myotonic) does can be bred at the same time to milk seasonally, or their breedings can be staggered to keep at least one doe in milk at all times.
Level 3 Herd: Goat Breeder
The Level 3 herd consists of any number of does and bucks who are kept specifically for breeding and improving the herd they reside within. Breedings are carefully orchestrated. Most babies born from breedings are probably sold, but are carefully scrutinized before offering for sale or kept for further use within the herd. Level 3 herds cull their animals often to weed out those who do not conform to what they want, and many times bring in better animals to improve specific traits within their herds.
If you want a Level 3 Herd, there is really only one rule for selecting animals. Buy the best conformed does and bucks that you can afford. Doing so will go a long way towards getting to your goals, because the closer you are to what you want, the sooner it comes. Many people do not realize that from the time a "keeper" doe is born, until the time you can determine if you want her to remain in the herd can take 2.5-3.5 years! That is alot of time to invest in one animal if you are wrong about her!
Still want goats? Let's talk about where to find them!
So, if you've read this far, you are probably still serious about getting goats, but how many should you get? For this section, I've developed a system of herd classification that I will refer to several times in future sections. Let's define them.
Level 1 Herd: Backyard Goats
The Level 1 herd consists of 2+ animals that are strictly kept for pets. Most often, this herd is made up of several wethers or does and wethers. If a doe resides in the herd, she is never bred. They live in small shelters or sheds in backyards, so they might also be referred to as "Backyard Goats."
If you want a Level 1 Herd, start with two wethers.
Level 2 Herd: Milk Production
The Level 2 herd consists of a small group of does that are serviced by one buck, either on the property or from another breeder, to bring them into their lactations. This herd is kept strictly for milk production purposes. Milk is used by the family for drinking, to make cheese and other dairy products, or to produce soaps and lotions. Babies born from the breedings are quickly sold at birth or at weaning, most often as pets.
If you want a Level 2 Herd, start with two does and a wether. Later, you can bring in a buck to service your does and move the wether to bunk with him when he is not "working". If you choose a breed that enters estrus all year (like Nigerian Dwarf, Pygmy, Myotonic) does can be bred at the same time to milk seasonally, or their breedings can be staggered to keep at least one doe in milk at all times.
Level 3 Herd: Goat Breeder
The Level 3 herd consists of any number of does and bucks who are kept specifically for breeding and improving the herd they reside within. Breedings are carefully orchestrated. Most babies born from breedings are probably sold, but are carefully scrutinized before offering for sale or kept for further use within the herd. Level 3 herds cull their animals often to weed out those who do not conform to what they want, and many times bring in better animals to improve specific traits within their herds.
If you want a Level 3 Herd, there is really only one rule for selecting animals. Buy the best conformed does and bucks that you can afford. Doing so will go a long way towards getting to your goals, because the closer you are to what you want, the sooner it comes. Many people do not realize that from the time a "keeper" doe is born, until the time you can determine if you want her to remain in the herd can take 2.5-3.5 years! That is alot of time to invest in one animal if you are wrong about her!
Still want goats? Let's talk about where to find them!
Where Can I Find a Breeder?
No matter which herd level you decide upon, you should ALWAYS buy goats from a reputable breeder who has PROOF that the animal you are buying is free from CAE. Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis (CAE) is a debilitating, deadly disease that is reportedly present in over 80% of herds in the United States. You do not want this disease in your herd. We will learn more about infectious diseases in later segments. For now, you only need to know that you are buying from a regularly tested herd before you go any further.
CAUTION:
DO NOT BUY ANIMALS FROM THE SALE BARN! Why do you think they are there? Sale barn animals are good for one thing...slaughter. I can't tell you how many times someone has called me asking for help with their goat they just bought from the sale barn yesterday, and it is dying today. Just DON'T DO IT!
Some tips for finding a breeder:
Where ever you choose to buy your goats from, remember to always ask for a negative CAE test dated within the last year, or if the animal is less than 1 year of age, ask for negative CAE test results from both parents. The test report will state the animals name and/or tattoo or tag identifier and will give result as NEGATIVE or POSITIVE.
Also, you want to make sure that you receive a copy of, and understand a breeder's sales policy. Most breeders post their sales policies on their website. If they do not have one posted, ask them. Some breeders charge a reservation fee while other offer free reservations to reserve an animal out of a particular breeding. Make sure you understand if your deposit is non-refundable or is transferable to other animals, and how long you have to pick up your animals. You might need to arrange transport either by air or ground transport. Failure to understand the sales policies of your chosen breeder can cost you money in boarding fees if the animal is not picked up by the deadline.
No matter which herd level you decide upon, you should ALWAYS buy goats from a reputable breeder who has PROOF that the animal you are buying is free from CAE. Caprine Arthritis Encephalitis (CAE) is a debilitating, deadly disease that is reportedly present in over 80% of herds in the United States. You do not want this disease in your herd. We will learn more about infectious diseases in later segments. For now, you only need to know that you are buying from a regularly tested herd before you go any further.
CAUTION:
DO NOT BUY ANIMALS FROM THE SALE BARN! Why do you think they are there? Sale barn animals are good for one thing...slaughter. I can't tell you how many times someone has called me asking for help with their goat they just bought from the sale barn yesterday, and it is dying today. Just DON'T DO IT!
Some tips for finding a breeder:
- A quick Google search in your state will bring up many choices for the breed you select.
- Visit some farms that raise the breed you choose to get an idea of what it takes to get started.
- You can also use www.goatfinder.com to find breeders of your chosen breed.
- Facebook has recently made live animal sales on the site, illegal. There are still reputable breeders there selling their animals, you just have to look harder to find them.
- Some breeders use Craigslist to move animals. Search for goats available in your area.
- Join goat groups on the internet or on Facebook and ask for recommendations for breeders.
Where ever you choose to buy your goats from, remember to always ask for a negative CAE test dated within the last year, or if the animal is less than 1 year of age, ask for negative CAE test results from both parents. The test report will state the animals name and/or tattoo or tag identifier and will give result as NEGATIVE or POSITIVE.
Also, you want to make sure that you receive a copy of, and understand a breeder's sales policy. Most breeders post their sales policies on their website. If they do not have one posted, ask them. Some breeders charge a reservation fee while other offer free reservations to reserve an animal out of a particular breeding. Make sure you understand if your deposit is non-refundable or is transferable to other animals, and how long you have to pick up your animals. You might need to arrange transport either by air or ground transport. Failure to understand the sales policies of your chosen breeder can cost you money in boarding fees if the animal is not picked up by the deadline.
So what do you think?
Did this page help you decide whether you are going to raise goats? If so (or if not) I would like to hear from you!
Did this page help you decide whether you are going to raise goats? If so (or if not) I would like to hear from you!
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